Sad News

Its been a tough week for anyone associated with High Adventure Expeditions. Our friend and co-worker Tendi Sherpa died in an avalanche on Himlung Peak.
Tendi was our climbing team leader on Everest in 2012. He was always quick with a smile, extraordinarily hard working and loved and respected by all who knew him. Our thoughts and prayers go out to his family.

Training for Everest

One of the most common questions I get asked is "How do you train for Everest?"  The answer is sometimes surprising:
Training can be divided into three parts 1) Cardio  2) Strength  3) Weight 

Why do I climb? - A Look into Expedition Leader Hugo Searle's 'Reasons Why'

Why do I climb? I’m asked this question all the time and I don’t think I’ve ever answered it the same way twice. It's not that I don’t know why I climb, but that there are so many reasons why I enjoy climbing that if I told you about all of them we’d be standing there for hours and you’d be bored to death. But here, in no particular order, are 10 of the reasons that I climb:

Five Peaks Wrap Up

The Five Peaks Expedition is over and was a resounding success.  All members are now home and adjusting to daily showers and wearing cotton again.  We had some notable accomplishments to recognize on this trip:
1) Ade and Doug reached the summit of Lobuche East. This was the first Himalayan summit for both climbers and was a truly hard climb that they should be proud of.
2) When we climbed Pokalde we invited one of our porters to come with us and it was Nima Sherpa's first Himalayan summit - hopefully they'll be many more for Nima.

May 12

 
Kathmandu. This morning dawned with the most beautiful, clear skies and spirits were raised that we would get out of Lukla in one day - a rare event. After watching many planes arrive and depart, at 10:00 am it was finally our turn. We boarded our small twin engine Dornier 228 and took off without incident. The flight was very bumpy due to high winds and our pilot told us that we were going to be the last flight out of Lukla that day, phew! Made it!
 

May 11: Namche to Lukla with high hopes for clear weather

Our last day trekking in the mountains began with goodbyes to our friends at the Zamling Lodge in Namche. We headed down the knee-shredding Namche hill and then began ticking off the villages in the valley until we got back to Lukla. It took seven hours of slow tired walking, the last two in the rain of a thunderstorm, a forewarning of the coming monsoon season that will end climbing on Everest and other mountains in a couple of weeks.

May 10: The journey continues

 
Pangboche to Namche. Today’s trek was described as " Nepali-flat". In other words we dropped, gained, dropped and gained again thousands of feet of altitude. The biggest descent was down from the beautiful village of Thyangboche to the river at Phunki Tenga and then back up the other side. The team was tired, but relieved to be in Namche again. Relieved because hot showers, free charging of electronics, good food and real coffee. Welcome conveniences made that much better after three weeks without them.

May 9: Homeward bound

Our intention was to get up early and walk up the nearby hill, Chukkung Ri, but after standing on far taller summits on either side of this hill (Pokalde and Island Peak) no one was motivated or interested in a 04:30am start to climb what one member derisively called the "slag heap". Instead, we slept in and had a late breakfast. After breakfast the team began the long journey home. The first leg was from Chukkung to Pangboche. We were now back on the main route to Everest Basecamp and it was strange at first to see so many people.

Island Peak: part 2

 
We continued up the steep headwall until we reached the summit ridge. This spectacular knife edge ridge led to a tiny pinnacle summit. Here we congratulated each other, took photos and determined to start down as soon as possible to be ahead of the other groups of climbers, some of whom were inexperienced and careless on the steep ropes.

May 8 Island Peak (Imja Tse)

 
Hugo, Doug, Lottie and Ade were all up, dressed and ready by 01:30. We had coffee or tea and a bowl of porridge each and left just after 2:00 am with Dendi and Gyalzey. Nima came too, but he was carrying a bag with our heavy mountain boots that we would use on the more technical section of the peak.
The true steepness and difficulty of the terrain was soon apparent as we looked up for the stars and saw instead a train of headlamps from the other teams who left before us. Looking like stars in the sky, we realized the work that lay before us and started our climb.
 

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