April 4th - Kathmandu

Kathmandu is a wonderful, sprawling, bustling city and I always enjoy being here.  One of the things I don't enjoy are the internet cafes.  This is the fourth time I've tried to write this blog entry.  we'll see if it works!

March 30th - Airlines

International airlines have a love-hate relationship with Everest climbers.  They love that we bring lots of baggage, usually oversize and overweight, and they can charge us ridiculous sums of money to transport it.  I've often heard climber discussing the ways that they managed to get their bags to Katmandu without extra charges, things like wearing their mountaineering boots onto the plane!  On the other hand they hate the stuff we bring.  There's the stack of AA batteries in one bag that look suspicious on x-ray.  As do all the pointy things like ice axes, crampons, ice screws and trekki

March 26th

Already some of the expedition teams are arriving in Kathmandu. There are many reasons for arriving early: more time to acclimatize, perhaps its easier to find just the right spot at basecamp or maybe teams want to be ready for an early summit window.  At HAEX we believe the best chance for a successful summit comes towards the end of May when the days are getting longer and supposedly warmer.  Even so, the fact that some teams are gathering make me anxious to get started!!


In recent years the clothing that we wear on the mountains has been revolutionized.  New fabrics, new manufacturing processes, new materials.  Add that to lighter weight, better performance and what I will be wearing on Everest will be very different to the clothing I was wearing 15 years ago.  Everything except socks - until now.

March 23rd - Packing

Packing is an inadequate term when used to describe the preparations needed to get ready to climb Everest.  I took over the spare bedroom weeks ago and began laying out all the clothing and equipment I might want to take.  Now that room is full and I'm spilling over into the office and garage.  It doesn't help that as the leader of the expedition I have some group equipment that I wouldn't need to bring if I was just a climber.  I have two base-station radios and 5 handheld radios; two gas heaters and two large radio antennas, and more - you get the idea.  Somehow I have to fit this into tw

March 22

Spoke at Black Hawk Middle School today. Rousing success! Another middle school following our efforts for 2012. It's always amazing to show the joys of mountaineering to the next generation.

The Team

High Adventure Expeditions' 2012 Everest climb is an all-British/Nepal affair.
Here are the players:
Team Leader:  Hugo Searle - UK
Sirdar:  Dendi Sherpa - Nepal
Amit Kotecha - UK
Nawal Saighal - UK
Trekking Team
Charlotte Savage - UK
Paul Savage - UK

Everest Expedition 2012

In less than a month the team will be gathered in Kathmandu.  We'll be getting to know each other, doing last minute shopping and eating at some of the great restaurants in the Thamel district of Kathmandu.
In the next few weeks I will be posting bio's and photos of our team members and this blog will be the place to check in and get (almost) daily updates on the climb.  Bookmark this page and prepare to be part of an adventure.

Shipping to Nepal

This year I have some new equipment that I'm bringing on our expedition to Mt Everest.  The problem is that its heavy, bulky and won't fit in my baggage allowance.  What to do?

High Altitude Food

There is an inversely proportionate relationship between altitude and appetite.  The higher you go, the lower your appetite gets.  (I wonder if this relationship holds true under the sea?  Perhaps as you sink thousands of feet down in your submersible you get an almost uncontrollable urge to eat everything?)  The higher i go, the more difficult it is for me to find things that I like to eat.  If something tastes "OK" at sea level, it will be pretty much inedible by the time you get to 23,000 feet.  So I try to find things that I absolutely love at sea level and hope that they're still toler